The museum’s a long way from downtown Rio: an hour’s drive from Copacabana along the coastal road past Barra de Tijuca. The good news is it’s a really nice museum in a gorgeous location — ocean on one side and the mountains on the other. Inside, the more than 5,000 pieces collected by French designer Jacques van de Beuque present a beautiful overview of Brazilian culture. The collection’s charm lies in the beauty of its naive portrayal of traditional rural Brazilian life.
The thousands of small clay sculptures, combined with woodcarvings and cloth and metal tableaus, depict religious and music festivals and farm and family routines. Adults may enter the x-rated sculpture department to see the hilarious sculptures in very compromising positions. One of its most famous rooms houses a wonderful mechanical diorama that represents an escola de samba (samba school) — complete with cheering audience — marching in the Carnaval parade.